Monaco is a study in contrasts—a tiny sovereign nation of less than one square mile that somehow contains more wealth, glamour, and drama per capita than perhaps anywhere else on earth. Wedged between the French Riviera and the Mediterranean Sea, this glittering principality is a place where superyachts worth hundreds of millions bob in the harbor, Formula 1 race cars scream through the streets once a year, and the Belle Époque splendor of the Monte Carlo Casino still draws high rollers from around the world. But beyond the obvious opulence and the celebrity sightings, Monaco reveals itself to be far more nuanced than its jet-set reputation suggests. Yes, there are Ferraris parked along every curb and designer boutiques lining every street, but there are also quiet medieval alleyways in Monaco-Ville where locals have lived for generations, peaceful gardens overlooking impossible blue waters, and a genuine sense of history woven through this modern playground of the ultra-wealthy. It's a place that can feel both wonderfully absurd and utterly enchanting—sometimes within the same five-minute walk. Whether you come for the grandiosity or stumble upon the subtle charms hidden between the skyscrapers, Monaco demands to be experienced, even if just for a day of wide-eyed wandering through one of the world's most extraordinary places.

*Monaco at sunset, atop of the Saint-Martin Gardens*

A Sculptural Escape: The Saint-Martin Gardens of Monaco

Just a short journey along the coast from Villefranche-sur-Mer brings you to Monaco, where the Saint-Martin Gardens offer a tranquil escape from the principality's glitz and glamour. Perched on the cliffs of Monaco-Ville (the old town), these gardens wrap around the Oceanographic Museum and Prince's Palace, providing one of the most serene and artistically enriching experiences in the city-state.

What makes the Saint-Martin Gardens truly special isn't just the manicured Mediterranean landscaping or the stunning views over the sea—it's the extraordinary collection of outdoor sculptures that transform the space into an open-air museum. As you wander along the winding pathways shaded by ancient olive trees, towering pines, and graceful palms, you'll encounter striking works of art that seem to emerge organically from the lush greenery.

Among the garden's most captivating pieces are the bronze and stone sculptures that dot the landscape. One particularly beautiful bronze figure stands draped in contemplation, her verdigris patina blending harmoniously with the vibrant red geraniums and golden foliage surrounding her base. The weathered stone pathway beneath creates a sense of timelessness, as if this figure has been keeping watch over the gardens for centuries. Nearby, a more abstract stone sculpture with angular, modernist forms creates a dramatic contrast—a faceless figure balancing vessels, caught in an eternal pose against the backdrop of the Maritime Alps rising in the distance.

These aren't just decorative additions; they're carefully curated works by renowned artists that invite reflection and dialogue with the natural setting. Each sculpture is positioned to take advantage of the garden's dramatic topography—some overlooking the vast Mediterranean, others nestled in intimate alcoves surrounded by oleander, lavender, and rosemary.

The gardens themselves are a masterclass in Mediterranean landscaping. Succulents and cacti thrive in the rocky terrain, while fragrant herbs perfume the air. Stone benches positioned at strategic viewpoints invite you to pause and take in the panoramic vistas: the sparkling harbor below filled with superyachts, the azure sea stretching to the horizon, and on clear days, the Italian coastline in the distance.

What I loved most about the Saint-Martin Gardens was how they offered a quieter, more contemplative side of Monaco. While the casino and yacht clubs below buzz with energy and excess, up here in the gardens, art and nature create a space for peaceful wandering and discovery. The interplay between classical and contemporary sculpture, formal garden design and wild Mediterranean flora, creates an atmosphere that's both refined and refreshingly unpretentious.

Entry to the gardens is free, making it an accessible highlight for any Monaco visit. Whether you're an art enthusiast, a garden lover, or simply seeking a peaceful spot to escape the crowds, the Saint-Martin Gardens provide a cultural and natural oasis where beauty takes many forms—sculpted in bronze and stone, growing from the earth, and stretching endlessly across the sea.

The Prince's Palace and the Grace Kelly Legacy

No visit to Monaco is complete without exploring the Prince's Palace, the official residence of the Grimaldi family perched atop "Le Rocher" (The Rock) in Monaco-Ville. This imposing fortress-turned-palace has been home to Monaco's ruling family since 1297, and its blend of Renaissance and baroque architecture tells the story of nearly eight centuries of royal history. But for many visitors, the palace's most compelling chapter is its connection to Hollywood royalty. It was here that American film star Grace Kelly became Princess Grace of Monaco after her storybook marriage to Prince Rainier III in 1956—a union that transformed both the actress and the principality itself. The palace's State Apartments, open to visitors during summer months, offer a glimpse into the opulent world Grace entered: gilded furniture, priceless frescoes, and rooms dripping with chandeliers and royal grandeur.

Just steps from the palace stands the Cathedral of Our Lady Immaculate, a striking Romanesque-Byzantine structure built from white stone that seems to glow in the Mediterranean sun. This is where Grace Kelly walked down the aisle on April 19, 1956, in a ceremony watched by over 30 million people worldwide—her Helene Rose-designed wedding gown becoming one of the most iconic in history. Today, the cathedral serves as her final resting place. Inside, a simple marble slab inscribed "Gracia Patricia, Princesse de Monaco" marks her tomb, often adorned with fresh flowers left by admirers who still remember the fairy tale princess who brought Hollywood glamour to this tiny principality. The tragedy of her death in a car accident in 1982, on the very roads that wind through these Monaco hills, adds a poignant layer to her legacy—a reminder that even the most enchanted lives are fragile and fleeting.